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BEAUTY

HOW TO DO A SMOKEY EYE, ACCORDING TO A PRO MUA

The smokey eye is one of the most iconic makeup looks of all time. It's a go-to for party girls and celebrities alike, proving its timelessness and versatility. And like most trends, it's evolved with time. From sultry 1920s flapper origins to grungey 00s-era Kate Moss and the soft brown tones favoured by 2020s It girls like Kylie Jenner, everyone loves a smokey eye. But like most things, it can be tricky to achieve if you don't know how – so we asked a pro. ASOS Makeup Artist, Isabelle Wilson, knows the science behind it, so she showed us how to achieve the perfect smokey eye makeup look. Scroll for the step-by-step, as modelled by ASOS Insider Aneesa.

STEP #1: PERFECT YOUR BASE

Woman getting her makeup done

Concealing + setting creates the ultimate canvas for your makeup.

First thing's first, carve out your brow with a concealer (Isabelle used the NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer) and then apply it to the rest of your eyelid. This will provide a smooth base for the smokey brown eyeshadow look, and will help with any hyperpigmentation you'd like to conceal. Top tip: use a concealer in a lighter shade than your skintone for this step – the tonal contrast between your eyeshadow and brow bone will result in a more striking look.

Aneesa Getting Her Makeup Done

STEP #2: ADD A WASH OF COLOUR

Apply a cream eyeshadow – Isabelle uses By Terry’s Ombre Blackstar – and buff it out towards your temples. This elongates the eye, giving your face that ‘snatched’ effect we all know and love. ‘This cream eyeshadow is a super low-maintenance way to add colour to the lid. Make sure to blend it out quickly, because this product does dry down fast,’ Isabelle advises.

STEP #3: BRING WARMTH TO THE LOOK

Woman getting her makeup done

Blending is the key to a smokey eye.

Pull a warm eyeshadow shade across your lid, directing it in an up-and-out motion using the top of your ear as a guide. Don’t worry if you lack the perfect shade – ‘if you don’t have a warm eyeshadow in your kit, using a bronzer works just as well,’ says Isabelle. She used the MAC Mineralise Natural Skin Finish in shade Dark Deep, but be sure to adjust according to your skin tone.

STEP #4: CREATE A SMOKED-OUT LINER

Woman getting her makeup done

Don't worry about being precise – we're going to buff it out anyway!

Line your lashes with an espresso-coloured pencil (not a pen, they're too harsh!) to add dimension to the look. ‘I follow the waterline and use a dense, fluffy brush to create a natural, smoked-out liner – accentuating the silhouette I already created.' Layer a darker eyeshadow over your liner for extra depth, and smoke out the outer corner with a bronzer to marry the colours together. ‘Bronze shades are trending right now,’ says Isabelle. ‘Check your undertone to get your perfect match – pink undertones suit cooler tones, while warm undertones look best with golden colours.’
Tight Line the Eye

STEP #5: ADD DEPTH BY TIGHT-LINING

Tight-line your upper waterline, ‘It makes them appear thicker and fuller,’ says Isabelle. ‘If you’re going for the soft and smokey look, try to avoid black – it can be too harsh.’ Repeat this with the lower waterline, diffusing it with your eyeshadow brush.
Applying Lashes

STEP #6: MAKE YOUR LASHES POP

Lash time! If you have a straighter hair texture, curl your lashes before applying a layer of mascara. If you want a more natural finish, consider a brown mascara, which looks especially good with green eyes. For added drama, apply some falsies – like Tatti’s Everyday Wispy Lashes – as close to the lashline as possible.

STEP #7: FINISH THE LOOK WITH SHIMMER (OPTIONAL)

Woman getting her makeup done

A touch of shimmer will give the look more dimension.

‘Sometimes I love to elevate my smokey eye with a little shimmer. Just pat some onto your finger and sweep it across the lid.’ Urban Decay’s Moondust Mono Eyeshadow in Space Cowboy adds glamour to a more natural smokey eye makeup look.

THE FINISHED LOOK:

Finished Makeup Look

bareMinerals eyeshadow primer

HOW DO I MAKE MY SMOKEY EYE LAST ALL DAY?

Precede step one with an eye primer. These are engineered to keep eye makeup in place, so your smokey eye will look as intense at 9pm as it did at 3pm. Waterproof formulas also prevent your makeup from smudging further – be on the lookout for waterproof liners and setting sprays to ensure your canvas isn’t compromised.

 

bareMinerals Prime Time Primer - Eyeshadow Extender, £19

HOW DO I CREATE A CLASSIC SMOKEY EYE?

‘Classic’ usually refers to black smokey eyes, popularised in the 1920s and adopted by grunge and gothic subcultures in the 90s. In the 1920s, concentrated black kohl eyeliners were applied generously across the lash line, then smudged into the eyelid using either a brush or your fingers. This look became famous for how sultry it made the eyes look.
Eyeshadow pigments

WHICH EYESHADOW COLOURS WORK BEST FOR A SMOKEY EYE?

If you’re an 00s purist or have a penchant for grunge, classic black smokey eye makeup is undefeated. It’s universal for all skin tones, and looks amazing when paired with a nude or light pink lip. If you’ve got green or blue eyes (or you just prefer a more natural finish), a brown smokey eye is a surefire way to make them pop.

 

Urban Decay Basics 2 Mini Eyeshadow Palette, £28

SHOULD I USE EYELINER FOR A SMOKEY EYE?

Pencil and kohl eyeliners are the most convenient ways to achieve a smokey eye. Just buff them in the same up-and-out motion as Isabelle to achieve the ‘smokey’ effect. If you lack a creamy liner, eyeshadow is your best bet. They’re buildable and offer more dimension than liners. Try diffusing black kohl liner onto your eyelid, then use a dense brush and brown eyeshadow closer to your brow bone and temples.
Red lips with red lipstick

Pictures: ASOS

CAN I PAIR A SMOKEY EYE WITH BOLD LIPS?

Despite the smokey eye + natural lip combo being so beloved, there’s nothing more statement than a bold lip. 1920s smokey eyes often came with a cherry-red lip, resulting in the era’s most iconic makeup look. So don’t be afraid to follow their lead. You can modernise the look by using a deep burgundy liner, then filling in your lips with a cool-toned red lipstick or gloss.

 

Charlotte Tilbury Hot Lips 2.0 Matte Revolution, £30

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