DEMYSTIFYING: RETINOL

With so many skincare ingredients out there, it can be tricky to figure out what each one does, and which are the best for your skin. On the agenda today: retinol. If you’re thinking of adding retinol to your skincare routine, or if you’re already using it but not sure if you’re doing it right – keep reading. We’re here to tell you everything you need to know, from how and when to apply it, to debunking the myths, and the best products for different skin types.

In its simplest terms, retinol is an exfoliant. In more technical terms, it’s a retinoid and a derivative of vitamin A, which is primarily used for anti-ageing purposes. It does this by increasing skin cell turnover (by exfoliation), which gives the appearance of more youthful, glowing skin.

If you want to reduce the appearance of sun damage, brown spots, large pores, lines and wrinkles, you can try retinol. However, it is not recommended for people with eczema or rosacea (if you’re having a flare-up) and women who are pregnant.

Yes! There’s retinol, retinal and retinoids. They're all vitamin A derivatives, and retinoids is the overarching term used to refer to them all. Put simply, retinals and retinols are both types of retinoids. And retinal is the more potent of the two, making it generally more effective, but also more irritating if you have sensitive skin.

 

Retinol also comes in different forms: creams, gels, serums, sprays and lotions. Which you choose will depend on your skin type. If your skin is oily, you could go for a gel or spray (as they’re more drying), while combination skin would benefit more from a lotion or retinol serum, and dry skin types should choose a cream for as much hydration as possible. Other factors will come into it too, in the winter you might opt for a heavier cream, while summer might be more suited to a light serum.

This high-strength retinoid is supported by squalane to bring hydration where retinol can be drying.
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The Ordinary Retinol 1% in Squalane 30ml, £8.50

You’ve probably noticed people talking about different percentages of retinol online, but we’re here to help you decipher which is best for you. If the concentration of a retinol isn’t specified on the bottle, it’s generally less than 0.25% – the best retinol for beginners. Once your skin is used to that percentage, and if you feel your skin isn’t benefitting anymore, you can start to increase the concentration gradually to a high-strength retinol.

For beginners, it’s best to start slow and simple. Keep your skincare routine minimal with a gentle cleanser, moisturiser and SPF in the mornings, and apply your retinol at night after cleansing and before moisturising (skipping the SPF here, of course!).

Start by using retinol just once or twice a week, on non-consecutive nights so your skin can adjust to the ingredient. You can gradually increase the usage if your skin handles it well, but avoid using for a night or two if you see any redness or irritation the day after. Eventually, you should be able to use retinol every other night, and then nightly.

When applying, take a pea-sized amount (or the amount in the pipette if it’s a serum) and dab onto the forehead, nose, cheeks and chin for even distribution across the face, then rub it in. And remember, it can take weeks to months to see the results of using retinol, so patience is key.