EVERY LOOK FROM THE ALLSAINTS SS26 SHOW

On Thursday night I joined hundreds of London’s leather-clad fashion enthusiasts at the AllSaints SS26 runway. As I looked around the Tate Modern Tanks – an imposing, concrete maze of spherical hallways – I could see why the famous gallery had been chosen for the show.

 

The Tate, much like AllSaints, is a hallmark of modern Britain. Both the brand and the space, which AllSaints COO Catherine Jobling tells me was a ‘huge source of inspiration for the SS26 collection,’ are composed of contradictions. Glass blends with brick, softness is undercut with a grungy hardness – and as the lights dimmed on the Tate runway, a live orchestra performed a euphony of classical and techno beats.

When the first look appeared on the runway, I knew Catherine was true to her word. The model wore a lattice-cut leather bomber jacket, which seemed to breathe as she walked. Small holes in the sturdy fabric break up a traditionally heavy design, a juxtaposition of layers that AllSaints is known for. ‘It’s my favourite item from the collection,’ says Catherine. ‘You can wear it with jeans, a slip or a skirt. It’s such a versatile transitional piece.’ Layering the jacket over a brightly coloured T-shirt would also create a striking pattern thanks to the complex cut of the leather.

Other standout items from the show include a cluster of delicate crochet looks, comprising matching hats, jumpsuits and tops. The famous gothic ‘AS’ lettering is embroidered on every piece – a nod to the brand’s heritage and a glimpse into its daring vision for the future.

“It’s very unexpected for spring/summer but also for the brand, but texture has been a huge part of this collection. It’s a beautiful contrast of the tough with the soft.”

Catherine is particularly excited by the menswear arm of the SS26 roster, which features bolder silhouettes than past AllSaints offerings. From varsity-inspired jerseys crafted in delicate cotton to leather with intricate patina finishes and wide-leg trousers. ‘The duality of this collection is really incredible,’ Catherine adds. ‘I hope that regardless of age or gender, people will be drawn to it.’

The latest menswear range is a celebration of this line-blurring. Catherine says her dream is ‘That the boundaries aren’t so harshly drawn when it comes to fashion. Across the board, we’re seeing men embrace a more fun and experimental style, which is why we’ve experimented so much with those pieces. We’ve always found our customer to be open to really varied things, which allows us to be bold in our designs. And that’s a gift.’

‘There are so many pieces that work at AllSaints that wouldn’t resonate at any other brand, because the people who wear us are so bold in their personal style. Our customer is open to the unexpected. Whether it’s a more conservative look or a very creative sense of style – both are valid and beautiful. So, I hope people feel that freedom in our clothes. After all, clothes are self-expression.’

 

Goth girl autumn might be snapping at our heels, but AllSaints is betting on a goth-girl summer. If it looks anything like this latest SS26 collection, consider me on board.

 

 

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