INSPIRATION AND ADVICE
6 TRENDS TO TRY FOR AW19
By Style Feed Staff, 28 February 2019
As another series of menswear shows wrap up all over Europe and in New York, it’s time to reflect on the wave of new looks coming our way this autumn. So, warm up those wish lists as we cast our eager eyes over the future top trends and key pieces to take advantage of.
It’s nearly a decade since Jim Jarmusch released his stately, stylish hitman flick The Limits of Control, and it seems like a whole bunch of designers bagged themselves a special anniversary edition of the Blu-Ray. The film’s signature sartorial move – the super-sharp tonal suits that Isaach de Bankolé's assassin sports, always coordinated with his surroundings – was all over the AW19 catwalks, with everyone from Valentino and Berluti (above) to Craig Green and MSGM delivering colourfully complementary cuts.
Part of a wider revival in traditional smart menswear (see also: grey), you don’t have to wait till next winter to take on this tonal tailoring trend. Cop a suit in a rich-but-muted shade (brown, rust, teal, powder blue etc) and pair with a smart shirt in a jewel tone from a similar section of the spectrum (or reverse it, with a jewel two-piece and a more muted button-down). Skip the tie to keep things clean and unshowy, or swap the shirt for a tee or roll-neck, like the Off-White model shown here, for a more casual vibe.
Welcome to the jungle. Or savannah. Or arid desert landscape. You can take your pick because animal prints of all kinds are roaring back into the sartorial spotlight for AW19. Spotted (and striped) on virtually everything – from accessories to trench coats – during men’s fashion month, at the very least, it might be time to ditch the Breton in favour of a tiger pattern.
Dior (featuring white tiger-style oversized scarves) and Neil Barrett (going full Kat Slater with that leopard print number above) were among a slew of designers walking on the wild side for AW19. And with the trend echoing womenswear's current safari-park aesthetic, as well tapping into broader trends like grunge and print clashing, we're expecting to see creatures feature on a whole range of our favourite garms this year.
Jumble sale pattern clash
There’s print clashing, and then there’s print clashing. Colourful, contrasting patterns and eye-popping graphics were a feature of the SS19 shows but, for winter, the likes of Versace, Vetements and Loewe took the mismatched motif and layered on several more levels of discordant decoration. Marni went wild at a luxe jumble sale, piling on animal skins, tropical vibes and granny chic touches seemingly at random, for a dressed-in-the-dark (but make it fashion) masterclass.
Danish designer Henrik Vibskov visited the same bring-and-buy, copping some sweet 60s shirting, one of your auntie’s old Laura Ashley dresses and smashing the whole thing together with some denim workwear for a grungy getup that balanced wearability and wackiness nicely.
Cop a picture, it'll last longer
No longer chasing checks? Are you feeling a little over Argyle? Well, good news buddy, because the knitwear on display in London, Milan, Paris and New York was bold, in your face and extremely graphic. The bright colours, slogan styles and cartoon-style motifs on their way for AW19 mean that, when the grim weather makes a return, at least your 'fit will still brighten up the place.
Raymond Pettibon, the artist responsible for Sonic Youth's iconic album cover artwork for Goo, featured on a Valentino jumper, with more artists already lined up to collaborate on future collections. From punk rock to dot com, Mihara Yasuhiro took a slightly different approach by incorporating Microsoft’s ‘green meadow’ desktop background into its collection. The knit rule for AW19? Opt for picture over pattern and, of course, the bolder the better.
If there was an overarching theme in the AW19 menswear shows, it was a shift from the logo-hoodie-heavy streetwear obsession of the past several years, back towards a more ‘grown up’ aesthetic. Trainers and tracksuits took a backseat and the more sober, boxy tailoring that’s been bubbling up for a couple of seasons finally came to the fore. With this 9-5 vibe came a more sombre colour palette, as the expected kaleidoscope of bold hues, neon pops and powerful prints was balanced by a significant wave of grey.
Grey skies don’t have to equal dull days, however, and the likes of Issey Miyake and Prada kept things understated but interesting with tonal touches and strong silhouettes. Louis Vuitton, in particular, produced a quiet riot of charcoal, ash and slate shades across patterned jumpers, giant puffer jackets, double-denim casualwear and lumberjack checks.
Here's some good news for those of you who are tired of shivering your way through the season. Scarves across all menswear catwalks are transitioning from humble accessory to more of an extra jacket, reaching gargantuan lengths almost capable of swallowing you up entirely, and maximising on that early 90s grunge aesthetic. And we're here for it. Come AW19, size really will matter, and the cosy levels are set to peak nicely.
Striped, plain, puffer style – it didn’t matter this fashion month as long as it was massive. E.Tautz showcased some traditional striped options with classic tassel detailing, while Jil Sander stripped it back further, opting for a plain blanket style, complete with oversized branding – another AW19 trend. The key lesson from all of this new-season neckwear? Go big or go home.