More than four decades since the Ramones 1-2-3-4-ed their way from Queens to the Bowery, and Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren brought safety-pin chic to the Kings Road, punk fashion is firmly back, setting the agenda for autumn. Forget the studs-and-mohawks dress-up cliché – punk for AW17 is about incorporating key late-70s details and timeless pieces into wearable, layered getups.
HOW TO WEAR PUNK FOR AW17
By Matt Glazebrook, 18 September 2017
This powerfully patterned getup feels closest to something Johnny Rotten might have worn in 1977. Inspired by fetish gear, Westwood produced skinny-fit ’bondage trousers’ – with zips, straps and assorted other hardware attached – in her and McLaren’s Chelsea boutique SEX, and they soon became de rigueur at the edgier end of the punk scene. These tartan trews are a wearable everyday take on the scene staple, while an eyelet belt brings bonus heavy metal.
Keep the patterns clashing with a purple Breton-striped tee and layer an oversized burgundy cardigan with mustard piping on top, for a look that says ‘I wanna destroy… but also stay cosy on chilly autumn evenings’.
While the UK punk scene burned brightly but briefly (with most of the major groups having disbanded or moved on from the three-chord template by 1979), in the US it trucked on throughout the 80s, spawning hardcore, pop-punk and grunge off-shoots. This subtler getup tips its hat Seattle-wards, with a classic plaid shirt over a washed black tee at its core.
Black Vans Old Skools are skate-punk standard bearers, and a nod to the California punk underground that spawned the Dead Kennedys, Black Flag and The Offspring. Slim-fit black jeans tie the whole look together, and will see you from mall to mosh pit in style.
DIY, my darling
From the moment The Clash started stencilling slogans onto their jean jackets, DIY-style customisation has been a core part of the punk aesthetic. This denim cover-up does the hard work for you, coming pre-accessorised with skull patches, but feel free to embellish with your scribbles, statements or carefully selected pin badges for a more individual take.
Fuzzy, mohair jumpers are another late-70s-inspired standout – a monochrome version, like this, with a simple graphic design keeps things simple and lets your illustrated outerwear do the talking. Finish with bleach-wash jeans (also a DIY option, if you’re feeling brave) and black Converse.