PFW AW17: TOP 5 TRENDS
By Style Feed Staff, 24 January 2017
Maybe it was this season’s overarching mission to elevate everyday pieces or perhaps it’s the general grey weather/mood in Europe at the moment, but the Paris catwalks were obsessed with the humble anorak. Last year’s infatuation with hiking gear is still on the ascent (sorry), but the focus has shifted from the feet to what’s going over the top of your outfit.
Styling fell into one of two main camps – anoraks as streetwear or as cover-ups for formalwear. Lanvin’s Lucas Ossendrijver paired his with low-slung slim trousers (turned up – another styling micro-trend), messy hair and what looked like reimagined galoshes, for a low-key skater vibe. Meanwhile, Haider Ackermann made an unlikely match of 70s-luxe velvet suiting and khaki waterproofs at Berluti, proving a practical coat can be posh, too.
Grungy, skate-ready and just a little lumbersexual, red plaid has pretty much been menswear's favourite pattern for the past few years. But now it's time for red check's blue-hued rival – the Crip to its Blood, if you will – to get a look in. Paris' catwalks were awash with the stuff, adorning everything from trad fashion giant Valentino's overcoats to edgy Japanese label Facetasm's (above) triple-shirt layering in blue and black boxes.
Balenciaga slung blue flannel workshirts haphazardly under polo shirts and shackets as part of its general 'just popped out to the garden centre vibe', while Givenchy (above) went full skate-grunge with blue checks over hoodies and clashing plaid prints on longline tees.
Brace yourselves, because one of menswear’s more Marmite accessories, the cross-body (essentially a bum bag), is back in vogue, with big players like Louis Vuitton and Hermès giving the streetwear favourite a new luxe finish. Forget images of naff festival gear or 80s exercise attire – this practical piece of kit has made its way from your dad’s holiday wardrobe all the way into next season’s most-hyped collections.
Over at Louis Vuitton, Kim Jones collaborated with cult skate brand Supreme, sprawling the iconic LV print and red Supreme branding across bags and backpacks that were worn with relaxed tailoring and fresh white kicks. At Hermès (above), high priestess of menswear Véronique Nichanian kept things a little more muted with sophisticated cross-body styles incorporated into its line of luxury luggage.
You might inherit 50% of your genes from your father, but according to the Parisian purveyors of high fashion, you’ll be inheriting 100% of his jeans in the coming winter. Just as we saw in London and Milan, the Paris catwalks were inundated with rolled up basic blue jeans, retro knits and classic chunky trainers that you would’ve probably seen your old man sporting back in the day.
Dries Van Noten defined dadcore in its second-day show, displaying straight-leg cuts and V-neck sweats that brought a traditional touch to its latest line. Elsewhere, Ami Alexandre Mattiussi mined a similar 'casual dad’ vibe, combining old-school blue denim with black kicks and retro sweats to nail a strong 90s feel.
Loose preppy layering
Fans of sharp, neat tailoring, look away now, because things are about to get loose. Come AW17, you’ll be wearing your old office shirts either untucked, half-tucked, or with some interesting layering. France’s key players gave preppy cuts a more laid-back feel with V-neck knits, roll necks and relaxed styling.
At Ami Alexandre Mattiussi, bright shirt collars creeped over jumper necklines, cuffs appeared out of sleeves and hems dangled in a sort of demi-tuck that will send shivers down the spines of the Savile Row set. Louis Vuitton’s tonal tailoring was broken up with similarly disjointed detailing, making for a steezy after-office-hours vibe.