MFW AW17: TOP 5 TRENDS
By Style Feed Staff, 18 January 2017
London’s stylish set kicked off the AW17 proceedings last weekend, but this week, it was over to the cobbled streets of Italy to consume a fresh slice of Milanese steez. Take a look here at the five most stylish servings from the fashion capital’s sartorial showings.
The russety colour scheme we've seen fashion embrace in recent seasons continued to cast Milan in a warm, retro glow. If AW16 featured a sunrise palette of oranges and yellows, AW17's hues – richer with reddy-browns – reflected its evening counterpart. Marni (above) brought mahogany corduroy and an orange-and-brown grid-pattern sweatshirt that referenced the tiling of a 70s shopping centre (in a good way).
Prada parlayed its ongoing retro obsession into some lovely suede coats and cord blazers in chestnut and beaver, while Missoni (above) filled a wearable collection with homely bonfire-night knits that gradated from mustardy-gold to a deep twilight purple.
Check it out
There was a whole lot of print over at the Milan shows, but the pattern that featured in practically every collection was check. Larger plaid designs were paired with daintier styles by everyone from Missoni to MSGM, to produce next season’s most powerful print-clash. At MSGM (above) a muted palette meant there was more than enough room for up to three types of check in one look.
Over at Versace, Donatella’s vision for AW17 (above) included plenty of Prince Charles’ check of choice, the Glen plaid. Slouchy trousers were teamed with simple sweats and shirts, and bombers in bolder, black, white and red buffalo checks. Keep your colours coordinated and come next winter you’ll be wondering how you ever wore just one print at a time.
When Kurt Cobain hit the slopes, we’d imagine he donned an outfit that’d hit the sweet spot between sporty-technical wear and grungy goodness. And we can only assume this vision in plaid and gore-tex was the muse for DSquared2 (above) and Moncler’s (right) AW17 lines, with both fashion houses showcasing the obscure-yet-effective blend of two big recent trends.
The former’s twin designers kept things typically technical and practical with patched overhead jackets, furry detailing and classic accessories, but injected a hint of grunge via check lining and plaid shirts, tied at the waist. Moncler however – no strangers to sourcing sartorial inspiration from things off the beaten track – kept things warm with boxy tweed hooded jackets, climbing-rope lining and sleeves that extended into gloves. Stylish, practical and just the thing for that 90s evening they’re holding back at the chalet tonight.
Mix business with leisure
Admittedly, combining two of menswear’s opposing style pillars is not the easiest trend to master, but the mix of tailoring and sportswear seen over in Milan made nailing smart/super-casual look all too easy. It was business up top and leisure on the bottom at Neil Barrett (above) and Ermenegildo Zegna, where formal suiting was given a comfier, contemporary refresh.
Barrett’s first co-ed collection featured loose, 80s tailoring adorned with classic sportswear detailing from the era. Printed joggers, cuffed suit slacks and striped, popper-style trousers gave blazers a more relaxed feel. At Zegna (above), the label's famous luxe tailoring came in lighter hues and softer fabrics. Jackets were worn with roll-necks, caps and lace-up boots.
Strike a cord
It’s probably time to apologise to your dad. Walk right up to him, shake his hand, and say sorry for ever teasing him about his dress sense. Compliment his 1/4 zip fleece and cord trousers while you’re at it, because the harsh reality that your father is more stylish than you is probably just about hitting home. And, although we saw dad duds rise in 2016, Milanese designers displayed corduroy in abundance on the AW17 catwalks, confirming peak dadcore is here for keeps.
Prada focused its efforts – more than ever – on simplicity, pairing textured trews with V-neck sweats and Oxford shirts to nail the dad-out-for-dinner feel. Marni’s new designer Francesco Risso however, elevated the brand’s cord offerings by displaying them in bold, block colours and baggy fits to top off a debut show of stylishly crumpled cuts.