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MFW SS17: Top five trends
By Style Feed Staff, 21 June 2016
In recent times, doubling up on tone or texture has become less the risky statement it once was and more a widely championed sartorial safe bet. At the SS17 shows, Milanese designers went one better, delivering entire outfits in the same tone, making up in clean-cut coordination for what they lacked in visual variety.
Versace paid homage to Prince both musically and aesthetically, with an all-purple polo, shorts and mac combo, while elsewhere, Bottega Veneta and Jil Sander gave luxe loungewear a pastel upgrade to fully embrace the palette’s harmonic potential. SH
Stripes and chevrons
It may be one of the simplest designs, but designers continue to find ways of reinventing stripes to produce fresh styling every year. And age-old fashion ‘rules’ surrounding the statement pattern were broken in abundance on the Milan catwalks, with Fendi and Vivienne Westwood clashing horizontal and vertical stripes across shirting and trousers to produce impressively discordant designs.
Others, however, were more subtle with their stripes – Marni utilised it in more of a block form to contrast parallel pinstripes, while both Neil Barrett and No.21’s shows saw a host of chevron patterns across the sleeves of jackets. SH
Fashion's westernwear influence is nothing new – see last season's 'cowboy prom' trend for the most recent example – but for SS17, Italy's finest purveyors of men's threads set their sartorial compasses towards a specific corner of the wild American west.
In a cloud of dusty tans and browns, the Milanese heavyweights rolled out threads that evoked the Arizonan and New Mexican landscape – Missoni's Painted Desert-striped shirts, Fendi's adobe-hued leather jackets and Salvatore Ferragamo’s excellent Harrington take on the classic embroidered 'Nudie' jacket – more sandstone cowboy than your typical rhinestone rodeo. MG
Revenge of the nerds
Geek chic went next-level nerdy in Milan, putting aside its NHS glasses and picking up its aircraft spotters' logbook and LARP shield. Asking if – maybe – that guy sitting on his own in the corner of the canteen for maximum wedgie avoidance was actually the coolest kid in school, Gucci gave us bowl cuts, Rushmore blazers and nan-knitted tank tops.
Versace, meanwhile, channelled our awkward teenage metal phase with leather trench coats and lank locks, and even reinvented that 80s weird-kid-with-his-anorak-hood-permanently-up vibe for a new generation. MG
Denim gets a deep clean for SS17 as designers hit the bleach bottle to bring new life to some of your favourite staples. Think 80s skinhead style à la This Is England mixed with more familiar cuts. Big players like Bally, DSquared2 and MSGM sent bleach-splattered boys down the runway, echoing the de-coloured denim spotted at Gucci’s pre-spring/summer showcase.
DSquared2 twins Dean and Dan Caten’s denim jackets and jeans came with a glam-rock edge, while Massimo Giorgetti's MSGM men wore bleached, stonewashed styles in a tribute to late-90s nostalgia. KH