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LCM SS17: Top five trends
By Style Feed Staff, 14 June 2016
You've seen what we wore to the London Collections Men SS17 shows this weekend – now check out five big trends we spotted on the catwalks and future-proof your summer wardrobe accordingly.
While the British Fashion Council was busy celebrating 40 years of the London punk scene legacy at LCM, the punk-inspired clothes on show had more of regional flavour. Back in 1976, when Vivienne Westwood was kitting out the scenesters of London in their bondage-trousered finery, the rest of the country was – by necessity as much as design – adopting a more homely, low-key approach to punk fashion (think Manchester's Buzzcocks and Joy Division in skinny blazers and functional overcoats, or Derry's Undertones in their hand-me-down jumpers and battered work boots).
Here, Matthew Miller's pin-badge-adorned blazers and handmade slogan tees in subdued monotones channelled provincial schoolboy punk dreams, while Christopher Shannon's distressed and embellished double-denim pieces had an evocative 'pub rocker who just saw the Sex Pistols for the first time' vibe. MG
Gender fluidity has become so entrenched at the sharp end of the menswear world, it barely counts as a trend anymore. Until now though, androgyny has skewed young and sexy – Jaden Smith 'flaunting his pins' in a skirt, or Kristen Stewart in punky tees and ripped boyfriend jeans.
At LCM, by contrast, the ungendered vibe went golden generation, with JW Anderson, Agi & Sam and Craig Green presenting housecoats, headscarves and muumuus for men, for a look that was sort of Young Thug meets little old lady. MG
When Skepta walked for Nasir Mazhar’s SS15 collection, head-to-toe in a full black tracksuit, it marked a significant moment for the resurgence of the jersey fashion icon. But for SS17 the tracksuit is in retrograde, shifting from 00s grime to 70s crime – a time when the two-piece was solely a loungewear staple, and the leisure suit of choice for the sort of Noo Yawk ne’er do wells who feature in Martin Scorsese flicks.
This take on luxe lazy-day gear is best exemplified through Cottweiler’s pastel-pink pairing, while Christopher Shannon’s denim double-up brought a contemporary feel to the classic piece, without sacrificing the all-important nostalgic edge. SH
Although boxy, oversized pieces frequenting the catwalks is by no means a new trend, it’s only recently the sleeves have surpassed the hem’s length and cuffs have begun a descent to knee level.
The Vetements-inspired movement gained traction in the AW16 showcases and with designers
JW Anderson and Xander Zhou also adding statement sleeves to hoodies, jumpers and roll-neck sweatshirts for SS17, it’s time to overcome its impracticalities and get peacocking the latest rebellion against traditional design. SH
Next summer, prepare for a pastel takeover as your wardrobe goes all Wes Anderson. At LCM, earthy mid-tones made way for sugary hues as designers like Craig Green, Christopher Shannon and Cottweiler applied the subtlest of pastels and creams to shorts, jackets and shirts.
At Craig Green, soft, delicate colours gave intricate patchwork pieces a romantic edge, while at Christopher Shannon, tracksuits popped in pastel orange, pale blue and powdery yellow. Elsewhere, Lou Dalton experimented with candy stripes in macaroon hues, with the designer’s ice-cream colours making us long for SS17 already. KH