MFW SS16: top 5 trends
By Style Feed Staff, 22 June 2015
After the amuse bouche of London Collections: Men last week, we're now into the main course – or secondo – of the men's fashion week schedule: Milan. Italy's fashion capital is where the big boys of the menswear game come out to play – Prada, Gucci, Armani et al – giving us the chance to ogle some seriously luxe clothes and, more importantly, guess which trends will be stepping off the catwalk and into our wardrobes (albeit in more wearable/affordable forms) this time next year.
Shades of beige
Milan was caught in a mini sandstorm over the weekend, with waves of light brown enveloping catwalk after catwalk. Corneliani sent down baggy T-shirts, Harrington jackets, trousers and trenches in variations on mustardy hues, while Versace offered shorts, suits and even a sort of reimagined mechanic's overalls set in a sandy tan.
Calvin Klein went full-on dadcore with variations on Gap-er-than-Gap khaki jackets and cargo pants and, on a similarly 90s normal tip, Bottega Veneta presented hoodies, joggers, denim jackets and more in every shade of beige and army drab (bonus 90s points for the 'Renton from Trainspotting' hairstyles). Matt Glazebrook.
After several seasons of skinny-fit, 60s mod-style suits being the smartwear go-to, it seems other shapes and decades are finally getting a look-in. Specifically, Milan saw a turn towards the sort of boxy, utilitarian tailoring that was the order of the day in the years after the Second World War.
Marni showcased contrasting separates in functional designs (lots of pockets), with a focus on baggy cuts that evoked the post-war 'demob' suit. Emporio Armani offered up a similarly capacious 40s-style approach with an added touch of rugged European worker vibe in the form of jaunty berets. MG.
The 70s trend has been doing the rounds for a few seasons now and although the womenswear shows have moved on to the New Romantic early 80s – you can thank London’s Jonathan ‘JW’ Anderson and Louis Vuitton’s arch innovator Nicolas Ghesquière for that – the disco years still hit hard on Milano’s menswear.
A more contemporary refresh than the Jim Morrison rock 'n' roll tip of season’s past, the burnt orange, mustard and mid-blue tones of the period felt fresh across colour-blocked revere-collar shirts, safari jackets and cuffed, straight-leg slacks at Iceberg. Prada’s knitted-by-your-nan rocket motif jumpers, primary colour stripe zip-ups and loose, tracksuit-inspired trousers put a new, relaxed spin on the ongoing 70s revival. Luke Raymond.
In keeping with the apparent rise of the ‘spornosexual’ and Milan’s propensity for the stacked male body type – take a browse at Versace/Calvin Klein/Dolce & Gabbana – its pretty apt that the weekend’s shows featured an underlying sportswear influence.
More dapper Dandy than your standard workout gear, longline boxing/basketball shorts were balanced with silk scarves and dropped-shoulder oversized shirts at Andrea Pompilio while Gucci’s new head honcho – Alessandro Michele – reinvented the tracksuit with head-to-toe floral prints. LR.
A continuation of the urban safari theme that took a hold of London Collections: Men, Milan’s menswear designers updated the classic military trend for the new season. A summer-appropriate spin on utilitarian tradition, Jil Sander updated the parka in new, parachute-lite weights whereas N°21 stripped the army shirt right back to its essentials – we’re talking a khaki colourway and worn-in finish, with a crisp, boxy silhouette. Fresh. LR.