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We went to London Collections: Men to get the skinny on what styles are set go large in spring/summer 2016, to save you the trouble. Here’s our pick of the best shows in, erm, show.
Agi + Sam
Agi Mdumulla and Sam Cotton’s latest offering looks like a nightmarish pyjama party – in a good way. Striped two-pieces, comprising oversized shirts and matching trousers (some cropped), look bed-ready with a childlike aesthetic that cries out for the addition of a teddy bear. That said, as a duo known for their playful approach to colour in seasons past, the muted shades of this collection suggest the brand is beginning to mature (albeit slowly) and fixes our sites on sophisticated stripes in ice white and cool blues for the season ahead.
Fashion's coolest, if not only, father/son duo Casely-Hayford's latest is a cultural clash of a collection for sure, drawing inspiration from London's African, European, Colombian and Asian communities. A fusion of knits in powerful patterns, clashed against loose, oversized tailoring and slouchy sportswear, this is grown up slacker style at its finest and provides an antidote to prescriptive summer rules that dictate shorts and T-shirts are the only way to go.
Coach Creative Director Stuart Vevers describes his second collection for the brand as ‘Kennedy boys meet Beach Boys meet Beastie Boys’. If that means as little to you as it did to us at first glance, let’s break it down. This stuff mines into the rich history and culture of Americana, combining 60s psychedelia with West Coast cool, and throwing in some skater shapes for good measure. Animal stripes and the kind of fluffy patches that wouldn’t have looked out of place at Woodstock give this crop of envelope-pushing designs a pleasingly nostalgic feel, but modern shapes bring things back from the brink of outdated.
Caught somewhere between Star Wars chic and a spa retreat, Jonathan Anderson’s latest collection fuses Luke Skywalker-inspired calico jackets with asymmetric smocks for a space-age take on laid-back luxury. The loosely constructed trousers billow on models as they walk, signalling a departure from skin-tight fits for summer 2016 and a move toward more relaxed shapes in tailoring. In terms of colour, this collection satisfies our current obsession with dressing in creamy neutral tones, and offsetting white against navy puts a new, stylish spin on colour blocking.
Lou Dalton's new collection captures the 'euphoria' of Mad-chester's hedonistic club scene in the early 90s, with a fresh riff on trippy Haçienda style. Acidic orange lends these looks a vibrant, Happy Mondays-inspired feel (easy on the maracas) but is made wearable by offsetting it against robust cargo shorts, macs and Harrington jackets in neutrals, navy and subtle blue shades. This is peppy utility gear for a new generation that wants to take the Mancunian spirit to new, exotic shores.
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